~Cats & Kittens - FAQ - General
• A kitten is the delight of the household; all day long a comedy is played out by an incomparable actor. - Champfleury
Cats make wonderful pets.
Cats can bring families together and provide endless laughs and a warm family feeling or completeness. They give complete unconditional love, warmth and a sympatric purr when you are feeling low. Often, physicians prescribe the introduction of a cat to people who have high blood pressure and other ailments. Cats are often chosen because of their very clean nature, or because they can be left indoors for longer periods than dogs. They don't dig up the yard, seldom smell, and can pretty much take care of themselves. Cats are intelligent, playful and yet independent. Cats love being a part of the family and usually make the humans their slaves in a very short time
An Indoor or Outdoor cat.
When deciding on a cat, it is important to decide what the cat will be. An Indoor cat often becomes more a family member. They are less independent than outdoor cats, and usually prefer humans as friends. They get less medical conditions, injuries and often make better overall pets. On the other side, they demand more of your time, must have more litter box cleanings and you are responsible for most of kitty's entertainment. Outdoors cats come and go, usually coming for food and an occasional petting, and then off they go not to be seen for another day. They fend for themselves and require little of your time. The drawbacks are neighbors often complain about your cat, you can become responsible for their mischief and vet bills are higher because of fights and other injuries. Pranks are often carried out on outdoor cats so the chances of mistreatment or death are much greater. Accidents on busy roads are also commonplace. It's hard to make an outdoor cat an indoor cat. It is much harder if you go back and fourth. This must be decided when getting your cat and stick with your decision.
Male or Female cat
Both are great pets, but different personalities. Males tend to be more affectionate and kind, and more willing to share their new home with others, particularly other females. They have the tendency to be less moody than females, but unless desexed at an early age they can spray the house thus marking their territory with a very foul smell and become aggressive in fights. Females can be more moody, attract males if not spayed and are more independent, although they also display a lot of affection. Again both make excellent pets.
When bringing a new cat home
Chances are kitty first will find its new "safety house". This is important, as this will be your cat’s hiding spot when kitty is scared. It usually will be in a cabinet either in the bathroom or kitchen... or under a bed. Once kitty finds the spot, an old towel or shirt that you have worn and has your scent should be placed into the cabinet for kitty to lie on. If a cabinet becomes that spot, remove any poison such as cleaners, plant food and bug sprays from that cabinet. Make a point of making sure kitty sees where you put its litter. Cats will remember this very well. Next kitty will find its spot for feeding. Cats like to be fed in the same area. They feel that area belongs to them. Food should be in a clean dish. The same is true with water, Cats drink a lot of water throughout the day and night and it is very important to keep their water fresh and clean. When kitty is ready, it will start exploring its new home.
It is important to let the kitten explore the area freely. They want to know their surroundings and how secure they feel it is. This also gives them the opportunity to find other secret hiding spots in case their main spot is unavailable. Once he/she is comfortable with its surroundings, the kitten will come to you and begin bonding. Allow it to make the first move. Cats do things ONLY when they are ready. This is the nature of cats. When cats come to you, they are accepting you. Cats do nothing they do not feel like doing. When petting your cat, be gentle. Kitty is not an 85-pound dog - When kitty wants on your lap, if you allow it, let the little one jump up and find its comfort spot.
Your cat has now accepted you, and now OWNS you. If you decide on having an outdoor cat... Be a responsible owner... your outdoor cat will rely on you for its food, health. love and most of all safety. Your community requires no litters of unwanted kittens populating the area.
What sort of kitten should I buy?
Choosing a breed involves the use of library books, visits to shows, and "Select-a-Cat” Of course, you may have a family history of a certain breed, or a friend with a lovely cat which determines your choice from the outset, though it is still worth asking whether this breed will fit into your home. If you are starting from scratch you should look at your own lifestyle and environment. Is there a lot of space, is there a large garden, is the house full of precious items, and are there young children, a dog, birds or fish? Do you work, and if you do is there time to maintain the grooming a longhair cat will need? Is it to be an indoor or outdoor cat? If you would like it to spend time outdoors – is the environment safe? All these will influence your choice of temperament, even before you choose on appearance.
Consider your budget - some pedigree breeds are very expensive, all are moderately so, but remember that the outlay is far outweighed by the upkeep. It is most likely that there will be more than one breed which will fulfill your requirements, and that they will differ in price.
What should I expect from the Breeder?
A healthy, clean, self-composed kitten. Fully weaned, and old enough to leave home (FCCQ inc has an age suggestion of 10 weeks).
A vaccination certificate signed by a Vet proving that the kitten has received at least one 3 in 1 (flu & enteritis) vaccination.
A Kitten Care Guide Chart, indicating what the kitten eats, when it was last wormed, grooming information, what further vaccinations are due, information on desexing etc, and the breeder's name and phone number.
A copy of the kitten's pedigree or an official registration certificate, including pedigree, from FCCQ inc (or other governing body).
A kitten purchased for showing/breeding must be registered.
You should be clear in your mind at the time of purchase if the kitten is to be simply a pet or if there is a possibility of it being shown or bred from at a later date. A breeder will always want only a show quality kitten on the bench under their Prefix, so it is essential that this is discussed if a possibility. A breeder will only sell a breeding cat to another breeder so unless you are prepared to go through the steps of becoming a Registered Breeder there will be no possibility of changing your mind at a later date and letting Fluffy have a litter of kittens. There is also quite a significant price difference between the price of a pet kitten and those sold for other reasons. Many breeders have a Contract that they require the purchaser to sign. These contracts are enforcable by law. If there are to be any restrictions on the use of a breeding cat, or the sale of its progeny for breeding, this will be made quite clear to the buyer at the outset and included in the Contract. Buying a registered kitten does not automatically give you the right to show or breed from it without the breeders permission.
How can I tell if the kitten is healthy?
The first consideration in buying any kitten is the environment from which it comes. The cattery must be clean, and kittens and cats should all be in good health.
Some breeds unfortunately have genetic defects eg; PKD in Persians. It is important that you research your breed and only buy from those catteries that test their parent stock on a regular basis. A responsible breeder will inform you of any problems with their breed and what steps they have taken to ensure that the kitten you are buying will live a long and healthy life.
A quick check of eyes, nose, ears and coat should be made discreetly while you give your new baby a welcoming cuddle. What you are checking for are any nasal or ocular discharge which might indicate the kitten has/is coming down with an upper respiratory infection, conjunctivitis, or even one of the more serious cat flu viruses. Ears should be clean or just normally slightly waxy. The coat should be clean, and there certainly shouldn't be fleas scurrying all over the place. The general condition of the kitten should be sleek-coated with a bit of a shine; the backbone and ribs should be smoothly covered with flesh, and the tummy nicely plump. A longhaired kitten should have a clean, soft fluffy baby coat, with no bald patches, or knots.
With the best will in the world, even the most careful breeders occasionally sell a kitten which comes down with something - it may only happen to yours too, as the ones still at home have not been stressed by a change to a new environment. The breeder who takes your phone number, and makes sure that you know that you can ring in case of any problems - and return the kitten if necessary - can be considered a good person from whom to buy.
What else should I look for?
The second consideration is the socialization of the kittens. This hinges on how they have been reared. Some breeders have outside catteries and some raise kittens in their home, either way the kittens should have they had lots of handling and be people-oriented. If possible meet the parents - this is what your ball of fluff will grow into. If the kitten is friendly and not timid with strangers, you probably have no worries however, some breeds are shyer and need a bit of patient and quiet cajoling to show themselves - here you as a buyer have a responsibility. DON'T take a mob of noisy children with you - just because a kitten is hesitant at first doesn't mean that it won't make a good family pet.
How can I tell if the kitten is show quality?
Whether you are buying for showing or for breeding, you need a very thorough understanding of the Show Standard of your chosen breed. Needless to say you should be buying the best kitten in the litter, or if the breeder is keeping the best, the second best. It is most desirable to buy a kitten which is moderately good overall, with no serious faults, and perhaps one or two really good features. The kitten must look like a good breed specimen, with balance, head, body, eyes, coat and colour well within the breed specifications laid down for the breed. The breeder should be anxious to ensure you have the best kitten to represent their breeding to the broader Cat Fancy
What do I need to take?
An enclosed cat carry basket (plastic, or plastic & wire construction will last for years), Your money! and sharp observant eyes.
What if I have problems?
Any problems should be referred back to the breeder as a first recourse. The answers are usually simple and these are people with vast experience especially with the breed of cat you have bought. Remember their reputations usually rely on word of mouth so of course they are always anxious to ensure all their customers are happy but they can’t help if you do not inform them of any difficulties.
Secondly even if your kitten is going to be the family pet and you do not intend to show or breed, you should join a suitable club. Not only are you mixing with other cat lovers so you can swap stories and experiences, but also that Club will have a delegate to the Council and can raise any concerns to representatives of the Cat Fancy. FCCQ inc has a number of clubs listed and membership fees are usually $10 or less a year.
Serious complaints should be put in writing to the secretary of whichever Council the breeder is registered with. FCCQ inc has a form to expedite these matters click here However it should be noted the Council only has limited powers and some issues e.g.: the return of monies, needs to be taken to small claims court.
Some commonly asked questions by the new Cat owner
Q. What about Allergies & Cats?
A. Many so-called allergic reactions to cats are reactions to the saliva of cats which is present on the fur due to constant grooming (licking of fur).
An Australian Study shows that unless children showed symptoms and there was a family history of allergies, they were likely to develop a stronger immune system if they had a feline friend. Dr Catarina Almqvist studied 516 children born in Sydney Hospitals from 1997 to 2000. Tests showed 29% of the children, whose families had acquired cats in the past 5 years, had a positive test for allergy. The figure for homes without felines was 47% positive for allergy. There were similar findings for dogs although the study focused on cats because none of the families had cats at the time the children were born ( while some of the families had dogs). Thw results were similar to European studies, according to Swedish-born Dr Almqvist [from the Woolcock Institute for Medical Research at the University of Sydney].
Q. What are the names given to male and female cats?
A. Unneutered (entire) male cats are called Toms and unsprayed females are called Queens.
Q. How often should I treat my kitten/cat for fleas?
A. To maintain flea control, it is recommended that treatment be applied throughout the year. If you have an outdoor cat and live in an area infested with Ticks it is very wise to use a combination flea & tick treatment as being bitten by a Tick can have deadly results.
Q. How do I know if my cat has fleas?
A. Apart from the obvious scratching, fleas can be recognized by their dirt, which are tiny black specks found in their fur close to the skin. This is most evident at the back of the neck and towards the tail end.
Q. How do I remove a Tick?
A. Ticks harbor MANY diseases which are dangerous if not fatal to cats and humans. If your cat gets a tick on it, it's extremely important to remove it properly and quickly.
You can see the small tick body on this tick, with the legs. The rest of the white is the bloating of the blood sac that has filled up with blood from a day or two of gorging. Once the tick is full, usually 3-4 days, it'll drop off and go about its business. For a female tick, this may involve laying thousands of eggs to create new ticks.
There are many, many old wives tales about tick removal. Most of them are VERY dangerous and make things much worse. Here is the proper method of tick removal, as endorsed by veterinarians.
Wear Gloves
Ticks carry many diseases and what you're doing is likely to get you in close contact with one.
Wear gloves and be sure to wash your hands THOROUGHLY after you are done.
Grab the Tick Firmly by the HEAD with tweezers
Your aim is to get the ENTIRE tick off of the cat.
If you just yank by the body, you might only remove half of the tick. Get as close to the skin as you can get with good tweezers. Note you do NOT want to do inane things like try to burn it with a match, or drown it, or smother it. Remember, the lethal part of the tick is in its saliva, which is already down in your pet's skin. Anything which antagonizes the tick is going to cause the tick to inject MUCH more saliva in. You want to get that tick out before it even knows something is going on.
Pull Straight Out Without Twisting
Again, the head of the tick is embedded into the cat's body. If you twist, you're likely to twist that head right off and leave it behind. It went in straight, it will come out straight. Yes, there are still times that a bit of head will be left behind. And again, it's not the head that is the problem, it's the saliva. So the cat's body will naturally push out the head after a short while. Do the best you can, but don't obsess if there's a small bit left.
Drop the Tick Into Alcohol
Ticks are VERY resilient and can survive just about anything, including drowning in water.
They have an air sac that helps them survive. However, alcohol is a poison. Drop the entire tick into alcohol and in about 10 minutes they should be toast.
Q. Can I give my cat milk?
A. Most cats will drink milk but this should not be given on a regular basis, of ever. Cats are unable to digest the lactose contained in milk, which can cause diarrhea. They are better able to dogest Yoghurt and Cheese.
Q. Can I feed my cat a vegetarian diet?
A. No! Cats need meat as part of their daily diet as it contains an essential amino-acid called taurine.
Q. How do I stop my cat spraying around the house?
A. Spraying is usually a territorial thing. There may be a reason why your cat feels the need to spray? E.g. any other animals that visits? First you need to clean the area with biological detergent e.g. washing powder followed by surgical spirit. Don’t use bleach; it contains ammonia also found in cat urine. This might help to deter him returning to the scent. You could try putting some cat food on the ground where he sprays, this could make him feel more secure and they tend not to spray around their food. Dry would be good, if he eats it. Don't punish him; this can increase anxieties which could result in an increase of spraying. There is a vaporizer called feliway which you can plug-in. It releases cat hormones called pheromones which are supposed to relax the cat and reduce this sort of behavior. It can be purchased from the vet. Finally, neutering of a tom cat can help stop spraying.
Q. Why is my cat scratching its ears?
A. Ear mites are the most common excuse for this. Contact your veterinary surgeon for advice.
Q. What age should I get my cat neutered/spayed?
A. Both male and females cats should be neutered/spayed at 6 months old. This is when they reach sexual maturity.
Q. How do I introduce my new kitten to my resident cat?
A. It can take time for a resident cat to accept a new kitten. She may or may not grow to like the kitten but she should learn to tolerate it. Play is usually an icebreaker. It just takes patience. Make sure she/he gets lots of extra T.L.C so she doesn’t feel ousted by the new arrival.
Q. What can I do if my cat is not using its litter tray?
A. Firstly it would be best not to punish him/her (as tempting as this can be) as it only increases anxiety and does nothing to correct the behavior. There are various things you could try. Firstly, more litter trays, ensuring they are spotlessly clean, placing newspaper under the tray to catch any spillage. If you have recently changed your cat litter it may be best to go back to the original brand of litter. Confining them to a small space where they have only the choice to go in a tray or their own bed. Any other space could be used up with food dishes. This could help to re-establish correct litter training. Try cleaning the area with some biological detergent followed by a spray of surgical spirit. Some cat owners swear by lemon juice or vinegar. This should help to get rid of the scent. Stress can also cause this behavior, e.g. neighbor’s cat, a new cat in the household, a new baby or moving house. You could try a plug-in diffuser, which is used to reduce stress and can be purchased from the vet. Finally, in the case of incontinence or a urinary infection contact your vet for advice.
Q. My cat is vomiting up balls of hair, should I be concerned?
A. Your cat is vomiting up hairballs. Hairballs occur in most cats and are an accumulation of hair in the stomach of the cat from constantly licking. To vomit up the hairball, a cat will usually eat grass. However, if the hairball becomes too large it can form a blockage in the bowel, which may cause recurrent vomiting. There are number of treatments for hairballs. Firstly regular grooming helps to prevent hairballs. Olive oil or liquid paraffin is often given to cats with hairballs: give one teaspoon per day for three days. Some owners may give their cat’s oily fish, such as sardines or mackerel, once a week to ease the passage of hairballs. There are also malt-flavored hairball remedies which can be given to cats. If your cat stops eating or seems off color, veterinary advice should be sought.
Q. How often should I feed my kitten?
A. Kitten needs to be fed little often. Adult cats usually twice a day.
Q. Why do cats scratch the furniture?
A. Cats will scratch to sharpen their claws. Also they are releasing and picking up scent. They will not scratch furniture or carpets if provided with a scratching post.
Q. When is it safe to let my kitten out?
A. Like young children, kittens should only be allowed out under supervision. Once they are neutered/sprayed and identified (collar/disc) it should be safe to let them out unless you live on or beside a busy road.
Q. What precautions can I take in the event my cat becomes lost?
A. safety collar and a disc with name and phone number will help other identify your cat. Micro chipping has also become popular. This can be carried out the veterinary surgeon.
Q. My cat seems to be sick a lot but is bright and eating well.
A. Fur balls is the most common reason for this or sometimes a cat can eat two quickly causing it to regurgitate its food soon after. If however the cat stops eating or seems off color, veterinary advice should be sought.
Q. Why neuter and spay?
A. For obvious reasons, the female should be sprayed to prevent unwanted kittens. The male should also be neutered to prevent him wandering in search of females in heat. Quite often the Tom can be involved in a car accident by venturing too far. Neutering also reduces the pungent odor of urine and territorial spraying.
Q. What does it mean when my cat purrs?
A. This usually means contentment but cats can purr when frightened or hurt.
Q. Why do cats spray?
A. Male cats spray to mark their territory. This usually occurs in unneutered Toms and can be counteracted by neutering.
BREEDING CATS
HOW OFTEN DOES A FEMALE CAT COME INTO HEAT?
In the world of breeding cats, the female cat is usually referred to as a "queen". Her heat cycle is often called the "estrus cycle" or simply "estrus". The length of time of the estrus, and the frequency of the estrus cycles depends upon many factors, such as geographic and environmental factors, (temperature and the number of daylight hours), her age and overall health, and her genetic background. Once a queen goes into heat or estrus, she may stay in heat for several days, to 2-3 weeks. Some queens, once they are sexually mature and enter estrus, do not come out of heat unless and until they are either bred to a full male cat, or spayed. The majority of queens will cycle in and out of estrus during the prime breeding season returning back into heat approximately every other week.
WHAT ARE THE SIGNS OF HEAT?
Each queen will exhibit different signs of being in heat or estrus. Unlike dogs, cats rarely show signs of vaginal bleeding during estrus. However, their behavior changes greatly, with the majority of queens becoming quite vocal and loud, and showing increased signs of affection. They may roll around on the floor or plop down right in front of you as you are walking; they constantly want to be with you and be stroked, and when you pet them on their back, they will raise their rear end up high and knead with their front paws.
HOW DO I KNOW WHEN I SHOULD BREED MY FEMALE?
Many breeders as well as veterinarians and animal experts have different opinions on this. It is always preferable to have your queen be fully grown and mature herself, both physically and emotionally, before attempting to have her become a mother. It is usually recommended to wait until your queen is a year old, and has had 2 heat cycles, before breeding her. However, that said, there are cases when it may not be in her best interest, medically, to wait that long before breeding her. Factors such as breed type, the number and intensity of heat cycles, can all play an important role in this critical decision. Breeders of pedigreed cats walk a fine line between doing what they feel is best for their queens, and actually inadvertently causing problems for the queen by interfering too much with what would be the normal course of events in nature. For some queens, if they have had 3 or more heat cycles without having been bred, especially if these heat cycles are extremely intense, they may become more likely to develop a condition known as "cystic ovaries". Once cysts develop on the ovaries, this will usually render these queens sterile and incapable of becoming pregnant. Occasionally, a feline fertility veterinarian specialist may be able to surgically break down and/or remove the cysts, but obviously this procedure carries other risks and may lead to scar tissue on the affected ovary. Infertile queens should be spayed and make WONDERFUL pets.
HOW LONG SHOULD I LET THE QUEEN BE IN WITH THE MALE?
Female cats are known as "induced ovulators", which means that the act of breeding itself is what stimulates her ovaries to release eggs. Most female cats require 3-4 breedings within a 24 hour period for ovulation to occur. Again, there are a variety of factors that can play a role here, and the breeder needs to be not only looking out for the well-being of the queen, but also for the overall health and well-being of the male cat ("stud" or "tom"). If the queen and stud are happy together, there is no urgent need to separate them after they have bred. We have left a happy couple together right up until a week prior to the queen's delivery date, several times! Once the queen is pregnant, she will go out of heat, and the male will stop breeding her. Some breeders leave the queen in with the stud for 1-2 days, while others prefer to be a bit more certain that the queen is pregnant, and give them 4 days together.
WHAT ARE THE FIRST SIGNS OF PREGNANCY?
Pregnancy in cats, called the "gestation period", generally ranges from 60 to 67 days, with the average being 63 days. Most of our queens deliver between days 64 and 66. It is very important to mark on your calendar the days you have actually witnessed your queen being bred by the stud cat, as this will be the primary way for you to determine when she is due to deliver her kittens. At about 3 weeks after breeding, a pregnant queen will show some physical symptoms of pregnancy, such as enlarged and rose-colored nipples, and a big increase in appetite and overall interest in food. Your veterinarian should be able to feel her abdomen carefully (called "palpating") and detect any small fetuses. Some queens will have a few episodes of vomiting - the feline version of "morning sickness". Most pregnant queens will become very affectionate, want to be close to you, and thrive on receiving loving reassurances from you that all will be well!!
WHAT SHOULD I FEED MY PREGNANT QUEEN?
You should expect that your queen will require and eat quite a bit more during pregnancy and during nursing than she did previously. One way to be sure she is getting enough nutrition is to increase the frequency of her feedings also. It takes an incredible amount of nutrition to create and then to nurse kittens, and if the queen is not taking in enough nutrition, nutrients will be pulled from her own tissues and put her own health at risk. A few days before her due date, you may want to start adding some calcium to her wet food. Calcium supplements for dogs and cats are available at most large pet and feed stores.
Pregnant cats do need a bit of special care. Be sure to keep her indoors and in a clean, safe environment at all times. Make certain that her litter box is always extremely clean to avoid the spread of infection; and you may want to switch to a 'shorter' litter box as her belly starts to grow. Be sure she has comfortable, soft places to rest, that she gets plenty of rest, and do everything you can to try to keep the atmosphere around her as stress-free as possible.
PREPARING FOR KITTENS
During the last couple of weeks of pregnancy, and sometimes earlier, the expectant mother will usually begin to look for a secure place to have her litter. This is definitely the time for you to introduce her to her "nest box" and birthing area if you haven't done so already. If your queen does not take to the area you have selected for her to have her kittens, you may need to confine her within a large cage or pen, or small bathroom, walk-in closet, etc. Many queens actually prefer this confinement, so they can start to settle down, and scratch around in her nest box. The area you select for her should be quiet and secluded, away from the hustle and bustle of activity, and certainly away from the competition and social stresses from being in close proximity to other animals.
The nest box should be large enough for your queen to move and turn around in, and stand up completely, but not so large that it doesn't seem like a private, cave-like, and safe retreat. Cardboard boxes are often used and make great nest boxes. Be sure the front is at least 8-9" high, to keep the kittens in, yet allow your queen to come and go. Do not use any plastic tubs or boxes for your nest boxes, as there have been reports about lost litters due to the chemicals in the plastics. Place several layers of soft clean, absorbent towels inside the nest box, and let your queen dig around and make her nest in them. Once the kittens have been born, it is then fairly easy to peel back and remove the upper, soiled layers of towels with minimal interruption to the mother and her newborn kittens.
Make sure you have on hand, all gathered in one place that is easy for you to get to when your queen starts going into labor: Soft clean wash cloths; Heating pad with cover or hot water bottle in colder months: Small carrier or box which opens from the top; Extra towels for changing the bedding in the nest box; Small scissors and reel of cotton; Portable phone and emergency veterinary phone numbers; Dopram-V (doxapram hydrochloride)*, and Oxytocin *. (Only for experienced breeders).
BREEDING CATS- LABOR & DELIVERY
As your queen nears her time for giving birth, she will exhibit a few signs that will give you clues to the impending arrival of kittens. The first stage of labor lasts from 12 to 24 hours, and may include the following 'symptoms':
• Nesting. She may start snooping around in closets and secluded areas for an appropriate place to bear her kittens. The time is ripe for you to prepare an area for her in a private place, with a box or basket lined with soft towels. She may decide instead to give birth on the cold, hard floor of your bathroom, but at least you have tried to accommodate her needs.
• Increased affection. She may suddenly become very loving, and want to be near you at all times. Don't be surprised though, if a previously affectionate cat becomes withdrawn and seeks solitude. Either personality change may be completely normal.
• Decreased Activity. Queenie may decide she'd rather sleep most of the time. She may also lose interest in food.
• Milk Discharge from Nipples. Your cat's nipples will have become enlarged and pink about the third week of pregnancy; 24 hours or so before birth; she may show a milky discharge. This discharge may come even earlier in cats that have given birth several times.
HOW DO I KNOW WHEN MY CAT IS IN LABOR?
Each female cat, or "queen", is different, and even the same queen can have different experiences with each litter. How her labor will go will depend upon many factors, including her age, health, genetics, how many kittens she is carrying, the size and placement of the kittens in her womb, if this is her first litter, etc. etc.
Some queens will become more agitated and restless when they are in early labor; some will have a slight mucous-y vaginal discharge; and you may also notice her trying to wash and clean her genital area more frequently.
Once labor begins in earnest, signs will usually include nervousness and panting. The queen will often lose interest in food the last 24 hours or so before labor begins. She will also usually have a drop in rectal temperature below 100ºF (37.8ºC). The temperature drop may occur intermittently for several days prior to delivery, but it will usually be constant for the last 24 hours. When labor starts, some queens will go straight to their nest box and burrow down inside the towels; some will cry and want to stay by your side. Some queens seem to have relatively easy labors, while others really hurt and scream each time a kitten is born. When you can actually see your queen trying to "push" out a kitten, you will know for certain she is having contractions and is in "hard labor". Total time in labor can vary from several hours to 24 hours or more, with the mother cat normally having some breaks and rest from labor in between kittens.
WHAT HAPPENS DURING DELIVERY?
While most queens experience delivery without complications, breeders will want to always be on the alert and be ready to assist their queens when needed. If there are going to be problems with the delivery, it seems to be most often the queen's first litter wherein problems are encountered.
Kittens are usually born head first; however, breech presentations, in which the kitten is delivered tail-end first, occur about 40% of the time in cats and are also considered normal deliveries.
Short-haired cats and cat breeds with slender or pointed head types seem to have the easiest and fastest deliveries, while domestic body type cats with the larger; round heads generally have longer delivery times.
Each kitten inside the queen is enclosed in its own protective sac that is part of the placenta ("afterbirth"). The placentas usually pass after the kittens are born.
If the delivery proceeds normally, a few big contractions will push the kitten out from the queen; it should exit the birth canal within ten minutes of being visible (either the head or sometimes, in the case of a breech birth, you may be able to see the tail). Following each delivery, the mother should lick the newborn's face. Her rough tongue is used to tear open the protective sac and expose the kitten's mouth and nose. This vigorous washing by the mother stimulates circulation, causing the kitten to cry and begin breathing, and also helps to dry off newborn. The mother cat will sever the umbilical cord by chewing through it about 3/4 to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) from the body. Next, she will usually eat the placenta, which will usually either come out already attached to the kitten, or will be expelled separately. It is normal for the mother cat to eat the placentas, although not all queens do. It is thought that the placenta contains valuable nutrients, possibly laxatives, and important hormones that help to stimulate milk flow in the queen.
Each kitten, as we mentioned, is born enveloped in a protective skin sac, transparent and filled with fluid. When the kitten starts through the birth canal, this sack sometimes is forced through first, the result being that the water forms a sort of blister-like protrusion before the kitten appears. Sometimes the force of the queen's contractions makes the bubble very full of fluid and prevents the normal progress of the kitten through the birth canal. Should this occur, pinch the bubble, or sack, between the nails of the thumb and the first finger (you can also use a thin alcohol prep or a piece of sterile, dampened gauze) to break the sac gently. This allows some of the "water" to escape, and the kitten should then come rapidly as the pressure from the bubble is relieved.
It is normal for the queen to break open the placental sac and clean the kittens; however, first-time mothers may be bewildered by the whole experience and not know what to do. If the protective sac is not removed within a few minutes after delivery, the kitten will suffocate, so you should be prepared to intervene.
The kitten's face should be wiped with a warm, damp wash cloth or clean gauze to remove the sac and allow the kitten to breathe. Then rub the kitten vigorously with a soft, warm towel, trying to simulate as much as possible the way the mother would normally wash her kitten with her tongue) to stimulate circulation in the kitten and dry it off. The umbilical cord which attaches the kitten to the placenta should be tied off with sewing thread or dental floss and cut with scissors sterilized with alcohol prep or dipped in alcohol. The cord should be tied snugly and cut about 3/4 inch to one inch from the kitten's body. You don't want the cord so long that it gets in the way as the kitten moves around in the nest box; however, you definitely don't want to cut the cord too close to the kitten's body. Take your time, waiting several minutes after you have tied off the cord to cut it, and do so very carefully.
When you see and hear a newborn kitten with a raspy noise as it tries to breathe, check first inside the kitten's mouth to make sure it does not have a cleft palate. (This condition is often accompanied also by a bubbling of air at the nose, and the inability to nurse.)
Sometimes, normal newborn kittens may aspirate fluid into the lungs, which you can help to remove by the following procedure. First, the kitten should be held in the palm of your hand with the kitten's face cradled between your first two fingers. The head should be held firmly with this hand, and the body should be held firmly with the other. Stand up, and use a slow, deliberate, downward swing motion with your hands so that the kitten goes down between your legs, then is swung up again. Gravity will help the fluid and mucus to flow out of the lungs. This process may be tried several times until the lungs sound clear. If the kitten is getting enough oxygen, its tongue will appear pink to red. A bluish colored tongue indicates insufficient oxygen to the lungs, and the swinging procedure should be repeated.
It may be helpful to have a smaller, clean, dry box lined with a warm towel for the newborn kittens. (A towel can be warmed gently in a microwave oven.) After the kitten is stable and the cord has been tied off and cut, it should be placed in the incubator box while the mother is completing delivery.
(With a very experienced queen, you may not need to do this as she will know how to continue to care for her newborn kittens even during labor.) Warmth is essential for newborn kittens, so a heating pad or hot water bottle may be placed under the box, or a heat lamp may be placed nearby. If a heating pad is used, it should be placed on the low setting and covered with a towel and kept UNDER the box to prevent overheating. A hot water bottle should also be covered with a towel. Remember, the newborn kittens may be unable to move away from the heat source and can easily become burned. Likewise, extreme caution should also be exercised when using a heat lamp.
The mother and her litter should be examined by a veterinarian within 24 hours after the delivery is completed. This visit is to check the mother for complete delivery and to check the newborn kittens. The mother may receive an injection (usually Oxytocin) to contract the uterus, expel any remaining birth contents from her uterus, and stimulate her milk production. She will have a bloody vaginal discharge for 3-7 days following delivery, which is perfectly normal. However, if the discharge is extremely heavy or if it continues for longer than one week, she should be examined by a veterinarian for possible problems.
HOW DO I KNOW IF MY QUEEN IS HAVING PROBLEMS?
While most deliveries are problem-free, if a queen is in HARD labor, with strong contractions and pushing hard for an hour without results, you should definitely be concerned and phone your veterinarian for instructions.
It may be a simple problem where your vet can even talk you through manually turning a kitten into a better delivery position. However, it could mean the kitten is just too large to deliver, or is wedged in the birth canal, or it could even mean a torn uterus. Sometimes a queen needs a C-section but sometimes she just needs more expert help than you can give.
Occasionally, labor stops and the veterinarian will give Oxytocin and/or calcium injections to start contractions again. And, by the way, should your queen need to have a C-section, provided your vet does not find anything wrong with the uterus itself, an otherwise healthy strong queen may well be able to have normal deliveries in the future, although her pregnancies should always be monitored very closely.
The queen may deliver her kittens at approximately 15 minute intervals, or go four or more hours between kittens. As long as she seems comfortable - don't panic. An extended period of hard, unproductive labor with her straining and pushing is worth panicking about. If the mother does go a long time between deliveries, put one kitten at a time in for awhile for her to wash and nurse if she is willing. Sometimes the action of the kitten nursing will help her uterus contract and even facilitate the next litter-mate to be born.
Professional assistance should be sought if any of the following occur:
1) Twenty minutes of intense labor occurs without a kitten being delivered;
2) Ten minutes of intense labor occurs when a portion of a kitten or a fluid-filled bubble is visible in the birth canal;
3) The mother experiences sudden depression or marked lethargy;
4) The mother's body temperature exceeds 103ºF (39.4ºC) (via a rectal thermometer);
5) Fresh blood discharges from the queen's vagina for more than 10 minutes.
Difficulty delivering, known as "dystocia", may be managed with or without surgery. The condition of the mother, size of the litter, and size and positions of the kittens are all factors experienced veterinarians use in making that decision. This is one of many important reasons not to let your queen struggle and get completely tired out before seeking veterinary help.
WHAT HAPPENS IF MY QUEEN DELIVERS A PREMATURE KITTEN?
Occasionally, a mother cat will deliver a litter several days premature. The kittens may be small, thin, and have little or no hair. It is possible for them to survive, but they require an enormous
amount of care, since they are subject to chilling and are frequently very weak and unable to swallow. Some may be able to nurse but are so weak that they must be held next to the mother. Kittens that do not nurse can be fed with a small syringe, bottle, or stomach tube.
The equipment and instructions for these procedures are available from a veterinarian. Premature kittens must be kept warm. The mother cat can provide sufficient radiant heat from her body if she will stay close to them, but you should not count on this, and should as an added precaution also provide ambient heating from a heating pad set on low, covered in a towel, and set UNDER the nest box. Too much heat can be just as harmful to these tiny creatures with their delicate skin as chilling, so any form of artificial heat must be carefully controlled. The temperature in the nest box should be maintained at 85º to 90ºF (29.4º to 32.2ºC), but the box should be large enough so that the kittens can move away from the heat if it becomes uncomfortable for them.
WHAT IF MY QUEEN DELIVERS A STILLBORN KITTEN?
It is not uncommon for one or two kittens in a litter to be stillborn. Sometimes, a stillborn kitten will disrupt the queen's labor, resulting in dystocia. At other times the dead kitten will be born normally, and the queen will continue with her labor and the delivery of the rest of her litter. Mother cats instinctively know when a kitten is stillborn, and they will usually ignore the kitten to save energy for caring for their viable off-spring. Although it is very distressing to have a stillborn kitten, there is usually no way to know the cause (unless there is an obvious abnormality such as "spinal bifida", which makes its presence known by a large hole in the kitten's back) without sending the fetus to a pathology laboratory for a complete autopsy which includes tissue cultures, and viral and bacterial cultures. Even then, sometimes there are no answers, although for breeders, the peace of mind from ruling out congenital defects and viral and bacterial infections in their breeding programs is often priceless. When the pathology studies come back with no known cause of death, the queen's hormonal levels (especially that of her progesterone) are the next possible area to explore for the cause of the stillbirth.
WHAT DO I DO NOW?
Besides enjoying your new kittens, watch over the mother cat carefully after birth for any unusual bleeding or discharge. Also be sure she is nursing properly. The first few days, the kittens will be receiving the valuable "colostrum" from the queen, which is a watery substance full of vital nutrients and antibodies. After the first few days, the queen's milk should come in, and be visible in her milk sacs. The kittens should have full bellies and not be crying constantly or showing other signs of distress. The first few weeks of life, kittens should basically nurse and sleep. The mother cat will take care of stimulating her kittens to urinate and have bowel movements, and she will clean their little bottoms herself. But if her milk does not come in, you will need to assist with bottle-feeding to save the kittens. When born, kittens should weigh about 3-4 oz., and they should then gain weight every day. By the end of the first week, they should have doubled their birth weight.
When in doubt about the health of the kittens or the mother cat, ALWAYS seek professional, veterinary help. Some problems that can but rarely occur are :
1. Mastitis. Although some inflammation around the nipples may be normal, excessive heat, hard swellings, bruised areas, or obvious pain would indicate the need for a veterinary examination.
2. Postpartum Hemorrhaging. Although some bleeding after giving birth is normal, excessive hemorrhaging is an emergency and calls for veterinary intervention.
3. Purulent Discharge. A foul-smelling discharge from the vagina or the mammary glands signifies the need for a veterinary visit.
4. Eclampsia. This is relatively rare in cats, and occurs either late in pregnancy or, more commonly, within the first three weeks after delivery. It is thought to involve calcium loss in the queen, either by lack of sufficient calcium in the diet, or poor utilization of the calcium present. Symptoms include restlessness, irritability, progressing to a stiff gait, poor coordination and/or vomiting. Eclampsia can be fatal if not treated in time.
However the chances are that your pregnant cat will have a completely normal pregnancy and delivery.
Other Common Questions
Q. What age do kittens open their eyes?
A. At approx 6-10 days old.
Q. What age should kittens be weaned on to kitten food?
A. The weaning process should be initiated at around 4-6 weeks old. By Six-seven weeks the kitten should be fully weaned but can still suckle off the mother if only for comfort.
Q. Why and what age should my kitten be vaccinated
A. The two essential vaccinations are cat flue and feline infectious enteritis. This is a course of two primary vaccinations 2-3 weeks apart followed by an annual booster. Additional vaccinations include feline leukemia virus, Chlamydia and also rabies if traveling or living aboard. Kittens can be vaccinated between 7 and 9 weeks old.
Q. How often should my kitten/cat be wormed?
A. Kittens and cats should be wormed periodically. Ask your veterinary surgeon for advice.
HOW TO MEDICATE YOUR PET CAT: (Humerous)
1. Pick up cat and cradle it in the crook of your left arm as if
holding a baby. Position left hand forefinger and thumb on either side
of cat's mouth and gently apply pressure to cheeks while holding pill
in right hand. As cat opens mouth, pop pill into mouth. Allow cat to
close mouth and swallow.
2. Retrieve pill from floor and cat from behind sofa. Cradle cat in
left arm and repeat process.
3. Retrieve cat from bedroom, and throw soggy pill away.
4. Take new pill from foil wrap, cradle cat in left arm, holding
rear paws tightly with left hand. Force jaws open and push pill to
back of mouth with right forefinger. Hold mouth shut for a count of
ten.
5. Retrieve pill from goldfish bowl and cat from top of wardrobe.
Call spouse from garden.
6. Kneel on floor with cat wedged firmly between knees, hold front
and rear paws. Ignore low growls emitted by cat. Get spouse to hold
head firmly with one hand while forcing wooden ruler into mouth. Drop
pill down ruler and rub cat's throat vigorously.
7. Retrieve cat from curtain rail, get another pill from foil wrap.
Make note to buy new ruler and repair curtains. Carefully sweep
shattered figurines and vases from hearth and set to one side for
gluing later.
8. Wrap cat in large towel and get spouse to lie on cat with head
just visible from below armpit. Put pill in end of drinking straw,
force mouth open with pencil and blow down drinking straw.
9. Check label to make sure pill not harmful to humans; drink 1 beer
to take taste away. Apply Band-Aid to spouse's forearm and remove
blood from carpet with cold water and soap.
10. Retrieve cat from neighbor's shed. Get another pill. Open another
beer. Place cat in cupboard, and close door on to neck, to leave head
showing. Force mouth open with dessert spoon. Flick pill down throat
with elastic band.
11. Fetch screwdriver from garage and put cupboard door back on
hinges. Drink beer. Fetch bottle of scotch. Pour shot, drink. Apply
cold compress to cheek and check records for date of last tetanus
shot.
Apply whiskey compress to cheek to disinfect. Toss back another shot.
Throw Tee shirt away and fetch new one from bedroom.
12. Call fire department to retrieve the damn cat from across the
road. Apologize to neighbor who crashed into fence while swerving to
avoid cat.
Take last pill from foil wrap.
13. Tie the little bastard's front paws to rear paws with garden
twine and bind tightly to leg of dining table, find heavy duty pruning
gloves from shed. Push pill into mouth followed by large piece of
filet steak. Be rough about it. Hold head vertically and pour 2 pints
of water down throat to wash pill down.
14. Consume remainder of scotch. Get spouse to drive you to the
emergency room, sit quietly while doctor stitches fingers and forearm
and removes pill remnants from right eye. Call furniture shop on way
home to order new table.
15. Arrange for SPCA to collect mutant cat from hell and call local
pet shop to see if they have any hamsters.
HOW TO GIVE A DOG A PILL:
1. Wrap it in bacon.
2. Toss it in the air.
Q. Do I have to toilet train the kittens?
A. No the mother will show the kittens what to do.
Q. How can I tell whether my kittens are male or female?
A. To sex a kitten, just lift the tail. Under the tail you will see the anus. If there is another slit (known as the vulva) directly below this then you have a female. For a male, below the anus, you will notice a furry area, which is covering the testicles. If you gentle pinch with your thumb and forefinger you should be able to feel the testicles, which shall confirm the sex.
